In Good Taste
Sweet Spot
Sue McCown's new restaurant takes the cake

Pastry chef Sue McCown has a secret: “You know if you eat one of these cakes and you’re smiling, there’s no calories. None. And if you’re laughing while you eat this … you start losing weight.”

OK, maybe that’s not completely true. But along with the thoroughly delicious fats and umpteen calories found in all great desserts, McCown’s pastries serve up an enormous amount of great fun, fabulous flavor combinations and gorgeous design.

The former pastry queen of Earth & Ocean Restaurant at the W Hotel, Sue McCown has baked up a new venture: her own restaurant, the recently opened Coco la ti da. Named for her favorite chocolate creation and located in the landmark Loveless Building just off Broadway Avenue on Capitol Hill, Coco la ti da is a tiny café decorated with murals of Pushkin fairy tales and an even tinier lounge, swathed in layers of silver cloth.

With help from friend and chef Karen Jurgensen, the menu includes small bites that continue the whimsy. With plates such as Happy as Clams (clams, caramelized fennel, mojito pistou), and Savory Lollipops (maple lacquered apple, chèvre-stuffed figs or bleu cheese and pancetta), diners can indulge in an entire meal, all served tongue in cheek. Featuring McCown’s signature desserts such as Melting (warm chocolate cake with milk chocolate, orange and caramel sauces), and the very popular Coco la ti da (coconut cream, devil’s food cake and triple-chocolate shortbread), this is both a sweet and savory restaurant.

“When people are having a satisfying meal they say, ‘Oh, that was such a great dish; that rack of lamb was wonderful.’ But when people have dessert, they light up like a Christmas tree! They’re just so excited—they get a sparkle in their eye, even if they’re having a bad day.”

Coco la ti da’s smiling customers will probably agree.